Highline Arborists
The Arborist's Guide
The healthiest trees are the ones that are understood. This guide is a starting point — for deeper assessment, call an arborist.
Chapter One
When to Prune
The right time depends on the species and the goal. There is no single “pruning season” — only the right time for each tree.
Winter dormancy is ideal for major structural work. The tree is resting, the architecture is fully visible without foliage, and wound closure begins with the spring growth flush.
Late spring is the time for flowering trees — prune after the bloom cycle to avoid cutting next year's flowers.
Deadwood removal can happen any time. Dead branches are always ready to come off, and removing them reduces risk and improves the tree's appearance.
Never top a tree. Ever. If someone recommends topping, find a different company.
Chapter Two
Signs Your Tree Needs Help
Crown dieback
Dead branches in the upper canopy often signal root stress, disease, or insufficient water. When the crown thins from the top down, the tree is struggling.
Bark splitting or falling off
Bark protects the tree the way skin protects you. Splitting, cracking, or sloughing bark may indicate frost damage, disease, or internal decay.
Fungal conks or mushrooms at the base
Mushrooms growing from the trunk base or root flare usually indicate internal decay. The tree may look healthy above but be compromised below.
New or sudden leaning
A tree that has always leaned is adapting. A tree that leans after a storm may have root failure — this is an emergency.
Excessive interior deadwood
Some interior deadwood is normal. Excessive deadwood suggests the tree is shedding branches it can no longer support — often a sign of declining vigor.
Leaf discoloration or premature drop
Yellowing, browning, spotting, or dropping leaves out of season can signal nutrient deficiency, root damage, disease, or insect pressure.
If you see any of these, schedule an arborist visit. Early assessment saves trees.
Chapter Three
Common Lowcountry Tree Issues
Live Oak Decline
Savannah's signature tree can suffer from a complex of factors — root compaction, soil changes, construction damage, and age-related decline. Early intervention with soil treatment and targeted pruning can often stabilize a declining live oak.
Spanish Moss — Friend or Foe?
Spanish moss is an epiphyte, not a parasite. It draws moisture from the air, not the tree. Heavy moss on a healthy tree is purely cosmetic. But heavy moss on a declining tree may indicate reduced airflow in an overly dense canopy — the moss isn't the problem, but it can be a symptom.
Boring Insects
Asian ambrosia beetles and native bark beetles bore into stressed trees, introducing fungal pathogens. The first sign is often sawdust-like frass at small holes in the bark. Healthy, well-watered trees resist borers; stressed trees attract them.
Root Rot in Poorly Drained Soils
Savannah's low water table and clay soils create perfect conditions for Phytophthora and other root rot organisms. Trees planted too deep or in chronically wet sites are especially vulnerable. Proper drainage and planting depth are the best prevention.
Hurricane & Storm Damage Patterns
After a major blow, trees may have visible damage — broken branches, split trunks, uprooted rootballs — or invisible damage: cracked scaffold branches, shifted root plates, or internal fractures that won't show for months. Post-storm assessment is critical even when the tree looks fine.
Chapter Four
Storm Preparation
Pre-storm pruning reduces sail area and removes hazardous deadwood before the wind arrives. A well-pruned tree allows wind to pass through rather than catching it like a sail.
Cabling and bracing provides supplemental support for structurally compromised trees you want to preserve. Steel cables between scaffold branches can prevent a split that would destroy the tree.
Post-storm assessment determines what's safe and what's dangerous after a hurricane. Not every leaning tree needs removal — but some standing trees are more dangerous than they appear.
“The best storm prep happens in January, not when the forecast changes.”
Chapter Five
Tree Preservation During Construction
The root protection zone extends well beyond the drip line. A general rule: protect a radius of one foot for every inch of trunk diameter. For a 30-inch oak, that's a 30-foot radius of untouched soil.
Compaction kills trees slowly. Heavy equipment driving over root zones compresses soil, destroys fine roots, and cuts off oxygen exchange. The tree may look fine for two years, then decline rapidly in year three.
Proper tree protection fencing should be installed at the drip line before equipment arrives — not after. Chain-link or orange construction fencing with signage. No materials storage, no grade changes, no trenching within the zone.
Savannah's tree ordinance requires permits for removing protected trees and imposes significant penalties for damaging heritage trees during construction. We write the arborist reports, navigate the permitting, and monitor during construction.
Questions About Your Trees?
This guide covers the basics. For a professional assessment of your specific trees, schedule a consultation with one of our ISA-certified arborists.
Schedule an Assessment